How Dumplings Took Over the World

As archaeologists pored over ancient tombs in Turfan, Xinjiang western China also known as Eastern Turkistan, in this northern Silk Road oasis they discovered some surprisingly well-preserved and familiar relics. Though hardened from over 1,000 years, there sat little crescent-shaped dumplings. Exactly who invented dumplings remains a mystery. But some scholars suspect they were first spread around parts of the ancient world by Nomadic Turkic peoples living in western China and Central Asia. This is thought to be the case because “manti,” meaning “dumpling” or “steamed bun” in many Turkic languages, appears to be the root word for dumpling in several other languages.

The Early Days of Dumplings

Ancient Turkic people probably stuffed their dumplings with meat. But it’s unclear when this practice began, or whether they learned the art of dumpling-making from others. However, this happened, dumplings certainly gathered steam in ancient China. That’s where they first appear in the written record: more than 1,700 years ago, in a mouthwatering rhapsody by scholar Shu Xi. In his poem, Shu alludes to certain cooking methods coming from alien lands. He describes a steamed wheat product as “mantou.” And he reverentially chronicles the preparation of kneaded dough balls called “lao wan.” They’re packed with pork, mutton, and aromatics, dipped in black meat sauce, and then quickly gobbled up, leaving people downwind to drool and fantasy feast.

The Evolution of Dumplings

Dumplings continued to take off and diversify in China over the next thousand years. Instead of the traditional meat filling, some communities opted for vegetarian dumplings. People developed new cooking methods. And because wheat was harder to cultivate outside of northern China, those in other regions began making dumplings using rice, tapioca, and sweetpotato. The relationship between Chinese dumplings and those in other areas is tricky to trace, but food historians have made their best guesses based on available clues.

Dumplings Spread Across Cultures

Turkic tribes spread and eventually established the Ottoman Empire around 1300 CE, bringing wrapped morsels west with them. In what’s now Turkey, most people wouldn’t have stuffed dumplings with pork due to Islamic restrictions. Instead, manti would come to be filled with ingredients like lamb, drizzled with garlic, yogurt, and meltedbutter, then topped with herbs and spices. Some scholars believe that the Mongol Empire also helped disseminate dumplings, perhaps introducing them to parts of EasternEurope. These dumplings could have come by way of China or directly from some of the Turkic peoples the Mongols hired to run their empire. One theory is that this gave rise to dumplings like Russian pelmeni, and the larger pierogi and vareniki, eaten in Poland and Ukraine, stuffed with things like potato, cabbage, cheese, and cherries. The Mongol Empire also controlled Korea and might have likewise introduced dumplings there, where “mandu” may be eaten with regional ingredients like kimchi.

Modern Day Dumplings

Later, after Chinese dumpling varieties were introduced to more countries, English speakers began calling them dumplings. The term means “littlelumps” and is thought to have been first used in 16th century England to describe dough balls dropped in liquid. Like knödel and matzo balls, they would’ve had no filling. So, the word was actually confusingly imprecise, but it stuck, nonetheless. When Japan occupied China during the Second World War, Chinese “jiaozi” were brought to Japan, where they in turn became known as “gyoza” and were more typically pan-fried.

So what about the fact that every region in Italy has its own variety of dumpling-like stuffed pasta? Some historians think that Arab conquerors brought dumplings when they reigned over Sicily between the 9th and 11th centuries. But the jury's still out. It’s unlikely that all dumpling-esque dishes came from the same root tradition. In many cases, it may simply be that culinary visionaries from different cultures shared a similar revelation: that cooking fillings encased in dough would be delightful. Either way, we can appreciate these plump pockets of perfection and the tangled, mysterious historical web that’s made dumplings so diverse and divine.

⭐Let’s dive into the recipe!

Turkish Kayseri manti holds a special place in my heart. These tiny, flavorful dumplings are a culinary marvel. Want to learn how to make them?

Ingredients

Dough

• 2cupswhole wheat flour

• 1egg

• 1teaspoonsalt

• 1/4cuplukewarm water

Filling

• 250gground beef

• 1onionchopped finely

• 1/4bunchparsleychopped finely

• 1teaspoon salt

• 1/2teaspoonblack pepper

Yogurt Sauce

• 2cupsyogurt

• 4clovesgarlicminced

Oil Sauce

• 2tbsptomato paste

• 2tbspbutter and/or olive oil

• 2teaspoons red paprika powder

• 1teaspoon salt

Optional Topping

• 1teaspoondried mint for every plate to be served

• 1teaspoonsumacfor every plate to be served

Instructions:

1. Prepare the Dough:

   • In a bowl, mix flour and salt. Gradually add water and knead until you get a smooth, elastic dough. Cover and let it rest for 30 minutes.

2. Make the Filling:

   • In another bowl, mix ground meat, chopped onion, salt, and pepper.

3. Assemble the Manti:

   • Roll out the dough thinly on a floured surface. Cut into small squares (about 2 inches).

   • Place a small amount of filling in the center of each square. Fold the corners to the center and pinch to seal.

4. Cook the Manti:

   • Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add manti and cook until they float to the surface, about 5-7 minutes. Drain.

5. Prepare the Sauce:

   • Mix yogurt with minced garlic.

   • Melt butter in a small pan, add paprika, and stir for a few seconds until fragrant.

6. Serve:

   • Place cooked manti on a plate. Drizzle with garlic yogurt and melted butter. Sprinkle with fresh herbs.

What's your favorite type of dumpling? Whether it's the savory Russian pelmeni, the spicy Korean mandu, or something entirely different, let us know over X!

Credits and Acknowledgements

This article was greatly informed by the research and insights of Miranda Brown. Her extensive work on the history of dumplings provided invaluable information and inspiration for this piece.

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